エピソード

  • 541 - Rusty Preisendorfer

    541 - Rusty Preisendorfer
    2024/12/23
    In today’s show San Diego’s surfboard and surfwear icon Rusty joins us to explain how his MIT mathematician father’s missive to follow his passion led him to art school and then to surfboards, learning how to push past moments of self-doubt, the secret unlock to Occy’s ’84 Thruster, the perils of licensing deals, and why some of the best design developments come from mistakes. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
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    2 時間 12 分
  • 540 - Matt Warshaw: Round Six

    540 - Matt Warshaw: Round Six
    2024/12/12
    In today’s show surfing’s foremost historian reveals the pro surfer who saved his life at age 12, the gift of finding 50 year old surf footage from his youth, the unsung heroes lost to surf history, how history is shaped by those who elect to share it, and why is more important than ever to cement archiving surf history. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
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    1 時間 52 分
  • 539 - Holly Beck

    539 - Holly Beck
    2024/12/05
    In today’s episode Holly Beck recounts her rapid rise into professional surfing and disillusionment, becoming an inadvertent model, expatriate freedoms, the fallacy of reality TV, and the holistic healing inherent to surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
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    1 時間 53 分
  • 538 - Liam McNamara

    538 - Liam McNamara
    2024/11/23
    Pipeline aficionado Liam McNamara joins us to discuss how growing up in a commune on welfare informed his approach to surfing on the North Shore, the single financial decision that salvaged his career earnings, how shepherding Hawaii’s youth rectifies past misdeeds, and why his last session at Pipe was nearly his last day on earth. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
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    2 時間 3 分
  • 537 - Brian Wynn

    537 - Brian Wynn
    2024/11/18
    In today’s show we hear from Jersey board builder Brian Wynn about how he built a career on doing what no else wanted to do, the fastest way to expedite one’s learning curve, why staying small is recession safe, and how ice hockey staves off burn-out. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
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    1 時間 35 分
  • 536 - Rachael Tilly

    536 - Rachael Tilly
    2024/11/07
    In today’s show our current and 2x longboard champ joins us to discuss how achieving a life goal can dilute future ambition, why pro longboarders net negative $ on Tour, the WSL’s reason for not acknowledging her as their youngest ever world champ, the ongoing influence of Terry Martin, and how she co-founded a women surf news media outlet. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
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    2 時間 7 分
  • 535 - Paul Saladino, M.D. and Brad Gerlach

    535 - Paul Saladino, M.D. and Brad Gerlach
    2024/10/31
    In today’s show double-board certified M.D. Paul Saladino joins David and Brad Gerlach to discuss how to reverse chronic illness through diet, why plants are bad to eat, our culture’s obsession with optimizing performance, and how surfing has redirected his lifestyle choices. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
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    1 時間 46 分
  • 534 - Chris Burkard

    534 - Chris Burkard
    2024/10/25
    In today’s show, world-renown photographer Chris Burkard explains that earning access to opportunity taught him the value of saying “no”, how a surf trip to Iceland inspired him relocate his family, why three days of darkness helped him unbury his core truth, and why his best work is still created in the ocean. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
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    1 時間 31 分