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  • How do you say "coffee" in Vienna?
    2024/12/26

    Show Notes: Viennese Coffee Culture: A Symphony of Dialects and Drinks

    Episode Overview

    If you want to immerse yourself in Viennese culture, the right place isn’t the university—it’s the café. Join me as we explore the soul of Vienna, where dialects mingle, history lingers, and coffee is celebrated in an endless variety of forms. From the Wiener Melange to the legendary Zarenkaffee, this is more than a story about coffee—it’s a tale of cultures colliding and blending in the heart of Europe.

    In This Episode:

    Viennese Dialect and Culture: How the unique cadence of Viennese German reflects the city’s diverse heritage and why dialects, not Hochdeutsch, dominate everyday life.

    The Origins of Viennese Cafés: The fascinating (and somewhat legendary) history that ties these iconic institutions to the Ottoman siege of Vienna.

    A Literary Pilgrimage: Discover the cafés that hosted the likes of Freud, Kafka, and Zweig, and why their spirit still lingers in Vienna’s coffeehouses.

    Your Coffee Cheat Sheet: A delightful guide to navigating Vienna’s coffee menu, featuring everything from the classic Einspänner to the indulgent Kosakenkaffee.

    Highlights:

    Introduction: Why the café is Vienna’s true cultural and linguistic heart.

    The Musicality of Viennese Dialect: A soundscape of the city’s unique linguistic charm.

    History Served Hot: From Ottoman battles to the birth of the Wiener Kaffeehaus.

    Literary Legends: The writers and thinkers who made the coffeehouse their second home.

    Coffee Culture Unveiled: A tour of Vienna’s endless coffee variations—from everyday classics to exotic blends.

    Sweet Endings: The imperial Zarenkaffee and other unforgettable specialties.

    Coffee Highlights from This Episode:

    Wiener Melange – The quintessential Viennese coffee, perfected with milk and foam.

    Einspänner – A coachman’s favorite, topped with whipped cream.

    Kosakenkaffee – Black coffee meets vodka and honey in a bold blend.

    Fiaker – Coffee with rum for a wintery Viennese treat.

    Zarenkaffee – A regal concoction of espresso and sweetened egg yolk.

    Soundtrack of the Episode:

    Immerse yourself in the atmosphere with waltzes, jazzy tunes, and the bustling ambiance of Viennese cafés, including:

    🎵 Classical excerpts by Mozart

    🎵 Good mood Walzer

    🎵 Viennese street sounds

    To know, see and hear more stories: 📖 Beyondberlin.substack.com Stories —big and small— that start in Berlin and look eastward, where Europe´s heart beats and its future unfolds. Text, sound, and photography.



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    11 分
  • From Vienna to the world: the journey of the 9th Symphony's Ode to Joy.
    2024/12/15

    Show Notes: From Vienna to the World: The Journey of the 9th Symphony’s Ode to Joy

    200 years ago, Beethoven composed a timeless anthem connecting people worldwide—from Vienna to Peking, Berlin to Tbilisi—in brotherhood and unity.

    Episode Overview

    Search for classical music online, and you’ll find countless flash mobs performing the iconic Ode to Joy from Beethoven’s 9th Symphony. This piece has become a universal anthem for unity and democracy, inspiring spontaneous performances and resistance movements around the globe.

    In this episode, we trace its journey:

    Vienna, 1824: The dramatic debut of Beethoven’s 9th Symphony, with its groundbreaking choral finale.

    Europe’s Anthem: Why Ode to Joy became the anthem of the European Union.

    Global Resonance: Its role in Tiananmen Square, Berlin, Kyiv, Tbilisi, and even Japanese New Year traditions.

    A Musical Revolution: Exploring Schiller’s Ode to Joy and its Enlightenment ideals, which inspired Beethoven’s masterpiece.

    We also reflect on personal and collective moments shaped by this symphony—from Leonard Bernstein’s Ode to Freedom concert after the fall of the Berlin Wall to the Ukrainian Freedom Orchestra’s recent reinterpretation.

    Highlights

    • 🎼 Behind the Music: Why Beethoven chose Friedrich Schiller’s Ode to Joy as the centerpiece for his revolutionary symphony.

    • 🌍 A Global Language: The countless ways people have embraced this music to express shared values of peace and freedom.

    • 🎤 Singalongs and Resistance: How Ode to Joy has united voices in public squares and protests, from Europe to Asia.

    • 🎻 Legacy and Adaptations: From Herbert von Karajan’s arrangements to the Ukrainian translation celebrating “Slava” (Glory).

    Dive deeper

    On beyondberlin.substack.com, you will find links to major executons, historical notes and my video recording from Glienicke Bridge in 2019, where we sang Ode to Joy on the 30th anniversary of the Wall’s fall.

    To get the next episodes and text posts in you inbox, subscribe at beyondberlin.substack.com

    🎧 The audio podcasts are also available on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, and all major platforms. Music Credits:

    ● Royalty free libraries for ochestral. choir and guitar versiond of Beethoven´s Ninth Symphony, as well as for the Intro/Outro music segments

    ● My own recording of 2019 singalong at the Glienicker Brücke, in Berlin/Postsdam



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    22 分
  • Small lexicon of the German government crisis.
    2024/11/21

    Germany is facing a government crisis, which, for them, is a rare event: on that has the country on edge. In this episode, we delve into the key German terms and phrases that are dominating the political discourse and shaping public opinion. From "Scholzomat" to "GroKo" and "Zeitenwende", we explore the nuances of these words and what they reveal about the current state of German politics.

    ● Key Moments and key words in the Episode:

    The significance of a government crisis in Germany: Unlike countries like Italy or France, where government crises are more frequent, in Germany they are epochal events that mark generational shifts and redefine the political landscape.

    The evolution of Olaf Scholz: From the robotic "Scholzomat" to the aggressive "Scholzinator", we analyze the Chancellor's changing persona and its impact on public perception.

    "Sofortismus" and the game of roles between those who want immediate elections and those who hide behind real issues, but also excuses, to buy time

    "Die Vertrauensfrage" and the historical echoes of the Weimar Republic: We examine the intricacies of the vote of confidence and how Germany's constitutional framework is designed to prevent the instability that led to the collapse of the Weimar Republic.

    The "lame Kanzler" and the erosion of authority: The podcast explores how the Constitutional Court's ruling against the government has weakened Scholz's position and led to a sense of political paralysis.

    The "K-Frage" and the search for the next Chancellor: With the SPD struggling to maintain its position, the question of who will be the next chancellor candidate is a central theme in the election campaign.

    The looming "GroKo" and the "Merkel-Lücke": The possibility of a Grand Coalition and the void left by Angela Merkel are analyzed as potential outcomes of the crisis.

    "Grün-Bashing" and the scapegoating of the Greens: The podcast discusses how the Greens have become the target of blame for various societal anxieties and insecurities.

    The "Friedenskanzler" and the turning away from "Zeitenwende": We examine Scholz's attempts to portray himself as a peacemaker and the implications this has for Germany's stance on the war in Ukraine.

    ● Music credits

    Royalty Free Music and Sound Effects Libraries, plus the music by Serge Pavkin, fully licensed.



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    29 分
  • "You shall fly, dove of peace; Tell everyone here, that we never want war again: We want peace."
    2024/11/03

    In this episode, we explore the complicated relationship between East Germany (GDR) and its proclaimed commitment to peace. The GDR built an entire national identity around the idea of peace, embodied in the figure of the dove, which appeared in murals, posters, and even songs taught to children. Yet, this commitment came with profound contradictions, as the GDR actively supported militarization, armed foreign states, and repressed domestic pacifism, all while promoting itself as a “State of Peace.”

    In today’s world, peace is again a political buzzword, but the freedom and justice necessary for true peace are often missing from the conversation. This episode traces how similar messages of peace in the GDR served as instruments for propaganda and control, setting a chilling precedent in Cold War-era politics and offering a lesson on the enduring power of symbols.

    ● Key Moments in the Episode:

    Peace on 2024 Election Posters in Germany – How political parties across the spectrum, from the SPD to the AfD, are employing "peace" as a slogan, each with its own twist.

    A Brief History of the Peace Dove in the GDR – From Picasso’s lithograph to East German propaganda, the dove became a central image in the GDR’s narrative of peace, used both in Berlin’s public art and educational songs like the one by Erika Schirmer.

    The GDR as a 'Friedensstaat' (State of Peace) – Examining the GDR’s ideological positioning as a peace state under Marxist principles and its tension with Western capitalist “imperialism.”

    Militarization in the Name of Peace – How militarization permeated the GDR society, from youth indoctrination to the National People's Army (NVA), and culminated in mandatory military service and arms exports.

    Arms Exports and Foreign Military Presence – The GDR’s paradoxical role as an arms dealer and military advisor, with involvement across Africa, the Middle East, and other regions, all in the name of supporting "peaceful" socialist allies.

    Pacifist Movement in West Germany and GDR's Influence – How the GDR and USSR exploited West German pacifism to counter NATO while suppressing East German peace activists who challenged militarization at home.

    The Legacy of Peace in Germany Today – Reflection on how the GDR’s legacy of “peace” still influences contemporary Germany’s political landscape and public memory, especially in East Germany.

    ● Bookshelf

    * Wolfgang Klietz, Waffenhändler in Uniform (Arms dealer in uniform), 2024

    * Thomas Großbölting, Friedensstaat, Leseland, Sportnation? DDR-Legenden auf dem Prüfstand (Peace state, reading country, sporting nation? GDR legends put to the test), 2013

    * Klaus Storkmann, Geheime Solidarität - Militärbeziehungen und Militärhilfen der DDR in die "Dritte Welt (Secret solidarity - military relations and military aid from the GDR to the ‘Third World), 2012

    * MDR Online Dossier: Geheime Kriege der DDR (Secret wars of the GDR), free to read, German

    * DDR Museum online, Die riedenstaube (The dove of peace), free to read, German

    ● Music credits

    In addition to the Royalty Free Music and Sound Effects Libraries, here you will find some seconds of the "Kleine weiße Friedenstaube" song by Erika Schirmer, which I embed here and partially reproduce in the podcast - performed by the DDR Children's Choir "Walter Ulbricht" of the Dresden Instrumental Group under the direction of Manfred Winter - for historical documentation (not commercial purpose).



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    29 分
  • The Humboldt Forum: Berlin’s Palace of Paradoxes.
    2024/10/18

    This episode explores the complex history and controversies surrounding Berlin's Humboldt Forum. We begin with an introduction to Berlin's layered history and the Humboldt Forum as a controversial landmark, highlighting the clash between its neo-baroque exterior and modern interior. The narrative then delves into the architectural journey of the site, discussing the Humboldt Forum's predecessors: the Berlin City Palace and the Palace of the Republic.

    We examine the series of demolitions and reconstructions that have taken place, from the Berlin City Palace's 15th-century origins to its WWII destruction, and the subsequent rise and fall of the Palace of the Republic as an emblem of East German identity. The episode also covers the contentious debate over preserving or demolishing the Palace of the Republic.

    The cultural significance of the Palace of the Republic in East German society is explored, including its role as a venue for diverse events ranging from concerts to political assemblies. We discuss the pivotal role of music in 1980s West and East Germany, and how the Palace became a stage for international music stars.

    The narrative then shifts to the Palace's involvement in the events leading to the fall of the Berlin Wall, including the GDR's 40th anniversary protests, Gorbachev's visit, and the historic vote for reunification within the Palace of the Republic.

    The episode concludes by examining the Palace's final years, including the discovery of asbestos contamination, its temporary repurposing for cultural events, and ultimate demolition. We then explore the Humboldt Forum's construction and its current role as a reflection of Germany's ongoing reconciliation with its colonial past, the controversy surrounding its funding, and its evolving place in Berlin's cultural landscape.

    Links & Resources

    ● Humboldt Forum Website: https://www.humboldtforum.org/en/

    ● Exhibition "Blown Away: The Palace of the Republic" https://www.humboldtforum.org/en/programm/laufzeitangebot/exhibition/hin-und-weg-der-palast-der-republik-ist-gegenwart-119504/

    ● Dirk Oschmann's book "Der Osten: eine westdeutsche Erfindung" https://www.ullstein.de/werke/der-osten-eine-westdeutsche-erfindung/hardcover/9783550202346

    Music Credits

    ● For background music and SFX: Pixabay

    ● For national and international hymns: public domain



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    41 分
  • Berlin, October 7.
    2024/10/07
    What can be added to the flood of words - some pathetic, some ambiguous - that flowed across Europe yesterday and today on the anniversary of 7 October? What more can be said to convey the atmosphere here in Berlin in these suspended days?Today, flags are flying at half-mast on all public buildings in the city. When it comes to symbolic gestures, Germany is unrivalled in Europe. Tonight, President Steinmeier has attended an ecumenical service in memory of the pogrom victims. Chancellor Olaf Scholz predictably recorded a video statement yesterday.What about substance - both human and political? Since yesterday, Berlin's walls have been covered with spray-painted slogans calling for 'Free Gaza' and 'Free Palestine'. Pro-Palestinian demonstrations, repeatedly authorised in the hope that they would be peaceful, were again broken up by the police on Saturday and Sunday. Predictably, these rallies quickly shifted from calls for Palestinian "freedom" to advocacy of Israel's destruction and expressions of solidarity with Hezbollah, the Islamic Republic and Hamas. This development follows a familiar pattern: incitement to racial hatred, calls for genocide and support for terrorist organisations banned in Germany - all criminal offences. Such a result is hardly surprising.Then there are the GDR-DDR nostalgics - self-proclaimed true pacifists who still fondly remember the state whose foundation is celebrated on 7 October, coinciding with Vladimir Putin's birthday. These nostalgics have revived their old solidarity with Palestine by waving Palestinian flags. One such flag-waver is my neighbour, a practising Catholic. This might be acceptable if the Israeli and Lebanese flags were flying next to him, because a true Catholic should be committed to universal peaceful coexistence. But no - when it comes to Israel, when it comes to Jews, peace is never universal.A few hundred metres from my home stands a famous East Berlin monument: the colossal head of Ernst Thälmann, founder of the German Communist Party (KPD). A hero in his own right, deserving some respect. And yet last night the base of the statue was defaced with the red triangle symbol of Hamas - the new swastika - and the slogan 'Free Gaza'. This has happened twice in the space of a year: December 2023 and October 2024.It's comforting to think that Europe's only problem with anti-Semitism is 'imported' from Arab countries via migrants. But that's not the case. It's comforting to think that those who defaced Thälmann's statue were poorly integrated second- or third-generation children of immigrants. But that's not true either. The area is predominantly inhabited by native German youths who, unlike migrants, are well aware of Thälmann's identity.It's convenient to believe that our European leaders - Macron, Baerbock and others - are exerting pressure and criticism "for Israel's own good". To some extent this is true. But to give credibility to our criticism, we must first face up to what's happening on our own streets and in our offices in Berlin.A year ago, colleagues from the company's self-proclaimed Arab community offered me Arab sweets in an office I visited. At the time, I didn't ask what they were celebrating. Later I realised it was Monday, 9 October 2023. They were commemorating the events of the previous weekend. In the same offices, being openly Israeli or Jewish is discouraged - a reality that predates 7 October. Notably, this attitude comes not from Arab colleagues, but from German, French, Bulgarian and Italian ones.Berlin, we have a problem - right here among us. This problem exists regardless of how Israel conducts its war - well, badly, disproportionately, or perhaps in the only way possible. It's a war that Israel didn't start, and one in which, unlike in 2001, none of us have sought to engage as a united Western front. We've left Israel to deal with it on its own, or with some US support. Europe? Absent, except for Baerbock's fruitless trips and Josep Borrell's often counterproductive statements as the EU's foreign policy representative.Let's go back to Berlin, the heart of Europe. Here and now, instead of endlessly reciting "Never Again Is Now" like a Virgin Mary's novena, we must face the reality of a resurgent, eternal anti-Semitism. This hatred sometimes masquerades as anti-Zionism, sometimes not.In a lengthy editorial today (in German, paywalled) Matthias Döpfner, CEO of Axel Springer - which owns Bild, Welt, Politico and Business Insider - tackles the issue head-on and delves into its roots: The eternal anti-Semite has haunted the world for centuries [...] and is now experiencing its politically correct revival in the woke movement at universities and elsewhere. Where does this come from? And what is the cause of woke and non-woke, right-wing, left-wing and Islamist anti-Semitism? The shortest and most succinct answer has four letters: envy.In his book "Why the Germans? Why the Jews?" the German historian Götz Aly reveals how deeply ...
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    3 分
  • Cossacks in Friuli 1944-45
    2024/10/02
    Cossacks have long captured the imagination—an exotic, faraway people often portrayed as fierce warriors, freedom lovers, and adventure seekers. As a child, I too was captivated by simplified versions of Russian classics like Gogol's "Taras Bulba" and Tolstoy's "The Cossacks," which romanticized them as noble warriors. The vivid illustrations from these books haunted my childhood dreams for years. However, the reality—especially during World War II—is far more complex and darker than these romanticized portrayals suggest. Their atrocities against Jewish people have often been minimised, and historians have long relegated their role as Nazi collaborators in Western Europe to a mere footnote, overlooked by most.In 1944, the Cossacks arrived in Friuli, in the far northeast corner of Italy. They came not on a heroic mission, but to do the Nazis' dirty work, lured by the promise of a new homeland. In the end they were betrayed - by the Nazis, by the British Army, by the whole world negotiating the end of the Second World War. The only exception were the poor mountain villagers who, despite having to endure them, eventually learned to coexist and empathise with these unexpected occupiers.This story unfolds in the part of Europe where I was born, at the crossroads of East and West, North and South of the continent. It's a European story - forgotten, but crucial to understanding the complexities of our past.Have you been possessed by the devil to come to this country?(Friulian) "Vejso vût il diaul a vignî in chest paîs?" "Have you been possessed by the devil to come to this country?"(Russian) "Brodili, brodili, brodili." "We wandered, wandered, wandered."This is an honest exchange between two women: one, asking, is from Carnia—a small, mountainous region that separates Friuli from Austria. It’s a region within a region, still unique today for its language and cultural identity.Now, many of you listening might not even know where Friuli or Carnia are. But if you pull up Google Maps, you’ll find them tucked away in the top-right corner of Italy, bordering Austria and Slovenia. Together with Trieste, they form Italy's northeasternmost edge—a place where kingdoms and empires have clashed, mixed, and left their mark.It’s the region where the brutal Isonzo front was fought during World War I, where the Nazis occupied during the Second World War, and where, until just 35 years ago, the Iron Curtain began—stretching from Trieste to Stettin. I spent my first 18 years living in the shadow of that curtain.But let’s go back to Carnia: this small, rugged land of mountains and narrow valleys, where Carnic Friulian is spoken—a language born from the fusion of Celtic, Latin, German, and ancient Slavic. Here, the grand events of the world—the empires, wars, and nations that rose and fell—filtered in only as stories. Tales brought back by mountain men who, driven by necessity, emigrated to Austria, France, Switzerland, Germany, even Russia. They’d leave for months or years, returning with a little money and a lot of stories.Carnia was isolated, inhabited by tough, proud people, accustomed to solitude. Few outsiders came here. That is, until 1944, when, in the chaos of World War II, the Nazis brought in a strange mix of Cossack and Caucasian peoples to occupy the region. They were there to crush the partisans, perhaps even to settle—a new homeland for the Cossacks, a "Kosakenland" outside their native lands.This wasn’t just an army—it was an entire displaced people on the move, refugees mixed with soldiers, swept along in the tide of the Nazi war machine. And so, a Cossack woman stood before a Carnic woman, asking for shelter. For eleven long months, they would share a home, memories, and their lives—after wandering, wandering, wandering, in search of a lost homeland.Why did Càrnia become so crucial for the Nazis in 1944? After Italy signed the armistice on September 8, 1943, switching sides and ceasing to fight the Allies, the Nazis swiftly occupied Friuli, Trieste, and Istria. They established the Operationszone Adriatisches Küstenland—the Operational Zone of the Adriatic Littoral—which was, in all but name, a Nazi protectorate.As in other occupied territories, the Wehrmacht guarded key towns and military objectives, while the SS focused on crushing resistance. However, in Friuli, especially in the mountains of Carnia, the SS struggled. By late winter and early spring 1944, partisan battalions had grown stronger, bolstered by young recruits seeking refuge in the highlands.By summer 1944, the partisan movement in Friuli reached its zenith. Relentless sabotage, attacks on German installations, and the elimination of numerous Nazi-Fascist garrisons led to the liberation of several areas.Two "Free Zones" were established—one of them in Carnia, a thorn in the Nazis' side. From these mountains, partisans could block all key passes and cut off German supply lines.Carnia's free zone was ...
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    1 時間 2 分
  • Unequal Memories.
    2024/09/03

    In this episode, we explore the contrasting memories of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact across Eastern and Western Europe, examining how this pivotal event continues to shape European identity. We delve into the pact’s far-reaching impact on countries like Poland, Belarus, Ukraine, the Baltic States, and Finland, bringing personal stories and historical insights to the forefront. The episode also looks at how the Soviet Union—and later Russia—navigated and reshaped the narrative around the pact, concluding with the ongoing challenges of creating a shared European historical memory.

    Key Points:

    Divergent Memories: The Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact holds vastly different meanings across Europe. While Western Europe often views it as a precursor to World War II, Eastern and Central Europeans see it as the moment that ignited the war, with both Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union bearing equal blame.

    The Secret Protocol: This hidden agreement carved Eastern Europe into German and Soviet spheres of influence, a fact that Western memory often overlooked. This selective remembrance shows how historical narratives can be manipulated.

    Poland’s Struggle: Poland, the first victim of the pact, faced brutal invasions from both Germany and the Soviet Union, leaving deep scars on the nation’s memory and identity.

    Belarus’s Perspective: Belarus remains attached to the Soviet interpretation of the pact as a “reunification,” a view that has drawn criticism from neighboring countries like Poland.

    Ukraine’s Shift: Since Russia’s 2014 invasion of Crimea, Ukraine has re-evaluated its history, now recognizing the pact’s devastating consequences and holding both Stalin and Hitler accountable.

    The Baltic States’ Fight: Annexed by the Soviet Union after the pact, the Baltic States endured decades of oppression. Their struggle for independence culminated in the historic Baltic Way demonstration in 1989.

    Finland’s Complex History: Finland, though not annexed, suffered territorial losses and endured the Winter War due to the pact. Their history reflects a nuanced relationship with both the Soviet Union and Nazi Germany.

    Moldova and Romania’s Wounds: The Soviet annexation of Bessarabia, facilitated by the pact, left a lasting impact on the collective memories of Moldova and Romania, shaping their identities to this day.

    Russia’s Reinterpretation: Initially, the Soviet Union denied the existence of the pact’s secret protocols. Under Putin, however, Russia has reframed the pact as a strategic necessity, even displaying the original documents in a 2019 exhibition.

    The EU’s Role: The entry of Eastern and Central European countries into the EU brought their diverse memories of the pact into the European political dialogue. The establishment of August 23 as a day of remembrance sparked debates on how to collectively honor the victims of totalitarian regimes.

    Today, tomorrow:

    The memory of the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact continues to shape Europe’s identity and politics. The challenge lies in crafting a shared historical narrative that respects the varied experiences of all European nations. This episode is a reminder of the importance of honest historical reflection in building a united European future.

    Featured Voices:

    Historian Roger Moorhouse

    Personal stories from those impacted by the pact

    Quotes from historical figures and media sources

    Further Reading/Listening:

    The Devil’s Alliance: Hitler’s Pact with Stalin by Roger Moorhouse

    Articles on the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact and its impact across Europe

    Other episodes of the Beyond Berlin podcast

    For more materials and the full script of this episode, visit:

    beyondberlin.substack.com



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    39 分